Geometry Lessons
By Iris Schreier
Using pieces made especially for Vogue Knitting, Iris Schreier demonstrates simple ways to turn triangles, squares and diamonds into high fashion.
Have you ever walked into a yarn shop and seen a luscious hand-painted skein of yarn that you just had to have, then discovered to your great disappointment that it looked better in the original skein than in the knitted fabric? I’ve found that with multidirectional knitting, variegated yarns knit beautifully no matter the design, and that it’s actually possible to knit in continuous modules without having to cut yarn or pick up stitches. As an added benefit, you’ll generally avoid the sagging or elongation that results from simple garter stitch; multidirectional knitting will pull your work in various directions, keeping it from stretching out needlessly. Garter stitch works best for this type of knitting because the height of two rows is equivalent to the width of one stitch, so the proportions are perfect for geometric shapes. But a few other ideas can be incorporated to achieve the pretty lacy effects you see in the examples on these pages.
Left: Iris Schreier’s garter-stitch wrap is knitted every row. Artyarns’ “Regal Silk” is alternated with “Silk Mohair” every other row. Right: The P90 Diagonal Triangle Tank, in “Regal Silk” and “Silk Ribbon” from Artyarns, is similar to the wrap in that it starts with a center-increase triangle. The front and back are each worked continuously in one piece (pattern available through Artyarns stockists).
First, some concepts to help you understand a few of the shapes used in these wraps and other modular garments: To make a center-increase diamond, cast on three stitches. Increase only in the center stitch of each row and knit all remaining stitches as follows: Row 1: K1, k1inc1 (knit in front and back of stitch), pm, k1. Row 2: K to marker, rm (remove marker), k1inc1, pm, k to end. Rep row 2—one stitch increased per row—until diamond is at desired size. The center stitch is the first stitch of the k1inc1 pair made on the previous row. The resulting shape is a diamond, which you can make as large as you wish by adding more rows. Conversely, you would build a center-decrease diamond by casting on twenty stitches, for example, and decreasing only the center stitches on each row, as follows: Row 1: K9, k2tog, pm, k9. Row 2: K to marker, rm, k2tog, pm, k to end. Rep row 2—one stitch decreased per row—until 3 sts remain. Bind off all sts. To knit the center-increase triangle with a flat base as used in the three projects featured on these pages, you will increase in the first stitch of each row and in the center stitch of each row—two stitches increased per row.
Alternately, to knit the center-decrease triangles used in this project, you would decrease by knitting together two stitches in the center and the two last stitches of each row—two stitches decreased per row. (You’re just reversing the instructions.)
You’ll find that there’s a rhythm and flow to the whole process of multidirectional knitting. It’s very important to note that since needles will straighten the knitted fabric, you will not be able to see the shapes form visually until the knitted fabric is hanging about 4"/10cm below the needles. Better yet, remove the knitted piece from the needles completely to see the shapes in their entirety (run a piece of scrap yarn through the stitches on the needles to make sure you do not drop any when you do this). On page 48 and at right, you’ll find a simple, multidirectional all-purpose wrap with a lovely drape (see instructions on page 50 and below). If you choose to substitute yarns from those recommended here, make sure you select soft ones that will drape beautifully.
For more on this technique, visit the Multidirectional Yahoo group at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/multidirectional, where you can view a variety of photos and suggestions for various multidirectional knits. Don’t limit yourself to the pattern on page 50; instead use it as a starting point for further exploration of the possibilities of multidirectional knitting. This style of knitting can be incorporated into virtually any knitting project.
Remember, when you’re bored with knitting straight across, or just displeased with the effect your multicolored yarn is creating, simply turn and go in another direction.
This wrap, in Artyarns’ “Regal Silk,” is achieved with a lace panel, which introduces a new level of challenge by adding perpendicular emphasis.
This piece uses an elongated stitch pattern to create an open, airy feeling and is worked in Artyarns’ “Silk Rhapsody.”
Knitting the wraps
Before starting, measure your back width from underarm to underarm; this will determine the width of your first center-increase triangle (18"/46cm in this example). Circular 24" or 32" needles that are appropriate for the yarn chosen are preferred for the project. You will not be working in the round, but circular needles will make it easier to slip stitches onto a stitch holder and work the two sides separately. U.S. size 7 circular needles are recommended for the “Regal Silk” and “Silk Mohair” versions; U.S. size 8 circular needles are recommended for the version in “Silk Rhapsody.” From 350 to 500+ yards of yarn are required for each of the wraps, depending on desired size.
STEP 1—CENTER-INCREASE TRIANGLE:
Cast on 3 sts.
Row 1: S1, k1inc1, p1. Row 2: K1inc1, k1inc1, pm, k1, p1. Row 3: K1inc1, k to marker, rm, k1inc1, pm, k to last st, p1.
Repeat Row 3 until the width of the piece at the base measures approximately 18"/46cm or desired width based on the measurement from arm to arm across the back. Measure the width across the base of the triangle, which is the portion of knitting that is off the needles. (You’ll need to move all the stitches on the flexible part of the circular needles to do this most accurately.) Now you will want to grow the height of the piece, so measure how high you’d like the distance from your neckline to your lower back to be. (In this wrap we chose 14"/35.5cm.) Continue building height but not width, since the sides will be angled by following this instruction: S1, k to marker, rm, k1inc1, pm, k to last st, p1.
Repeat this instruction and you’ll see that your sides will start angling upwards. Continue until the height (as measured from the center point on the cast-on row to the center of the work on the needles) measures approximately 14"/35.5cm.
At this point, work each side separately. Let’s say, for example, that we have fortyeight stitches on each side, for a total of ninety-six stitches. Place half the stitches on a stitch holder. Here’s how: Slide half the stitches furthest away from the working yarn off one end of the circular needle and onto the stitch holder. The remaining half of the stitches will remain on the circular needle. Slide them back in position to continue knitting with the working yarn.
STEP 2—SIDE 1 PANEL:
S1, k to last 1 st, p1. Repeat this instruction until you have allowed enough space for the wrap around the shoulder as measured from the point where the neckline is worked separately. (It is recommended that you take at minimum half the width of the first centerincrease triangle, which is 9"/23cm in this example. But this can be increased to as much as 14"/35.5cm if you’d like more fabric in the front with a longer tie wrap.)
End at the neck edge.
STEP 3—SIDE 1 CENTER DECREASE
TRIANGLE: Using a Knitted Cast On, cast on forty-eight additional stitches in this example, or the same number of stitches that are on your needle if different. You will now have double the number of stitches.
Row 1: K47, or k to last stitch on the group of stitches that has just been added with the Knitted Cast On method, k2tog, pm, k to last 2 sts, p2tog. Row 2: S1, k to marker, rm, k2tog, pm, k to last 2 sts, p2tog. Repeat Row 2 until four sts remain. Bind off all sts. Cut the yarn.Weave in ends.
STEP 4—SIDE 2 PANEL:
Take the remaining stitches that are on the stitch holder (forty-eight in this example), attach the yarn to the top (neck) edge, and follow the instructions specified for Step 2.
STEP 5—SIDE 2 CENTER DECREASE
TRIANGLE: Follow directions for Step 3.
FINISHING: Sew together the edges of the wrap under the arms to create “sleeves” (see diagram) and get a comfortable and flat fit across the back. The wider you have made the side panels, the more stitches you should sew together to fit well beneath the arms. Wear the wrap with the sewn sides under the arms.
Pattern Options; There’s more than oneway to knit a square.
OPTION 1 (EASIEST)—SWITCHING YARNS
For the wrap on page 48, follow the pattern as instructed, but work with two yarns of different textures, such as the silk and mohair pictured in the example. Start with Yarn A, knitting with it for two rows; carry it up along the side while you work Yarn B, knitting with it for two rows. Continue alternating the yarns. Matching up silk and mohair is particularly recommended, because both are fine enough to carry up along the side as they disappear into the knitted fabric. Don’t try this with heavier yarns.
OPTION 2—ELONGATED STITCH DESIGN
Follow the pattern as instructed, but every six rows introduce an elongated stitch row as follows:Work the edge stitch of this row according to the pattern instructions, then knit remaining stitches by inserting needle into stitch and wrapping yarn twice (instead of once) around the needle. When you pull the yarn through to knit the stitch, there will be two loops coming out of each stitch. Continue in this fashion for all knit stitches, omitting the elongated stitch for all increases or decreases, and do not elongate the last stitch of the row. When you knit the next row, make sure to knit only into one of the double wraps for each stitch, letting the long stitch form by dropping the second wrap. This will create double-length stitches.
OPTION 3—LACE
Follow the pattern as instructed, incorporating lace panels wherever there is enough room between the edge stitches or edge and center stitch to incorporate a six-stitch lace repeat.
3+3-stitch Lace Pattern: Row 1: *Yo, sl2tog, k1, p2sso, yo, k3 [only needed between two lace ridges]; rep from * as often as possible between edge stitches and center-increase or center-decrease stitches where applicable. Make sure to line up ridges.
Row 2: K across all lace panels. Start adding lace repeats when your Center-Increase Triangle is ten stitches wide as
follows (odd row): K1inc1, yo, sl2tog, k1, p2sso, yo, rm, k1inc1, pm, k1, sl2tog, k1, p2sso, yo, p1. The following row (even row) will be K1inc1, k to marker, rm, k1inc1, pm, k to last st, p1. Continue by lining up the lace repeats so that the previous row’s yo is the position of the yo from the next lace repeat. But do not incorporate lace in any edge stitches or increase or decrease stitches. Follow the instructions for the edge stitches, increasing and decreasing as specified.
However, as you add the lace on every odd row, your first yo of the lace pattern should line up with the first eyelet of the previous row’s lace stitch to create a pretty ridge perpendicular to your triangle direction. Add another lace ridge whenever there are three knitted stitches available to separate one lace ridge from the new one. Any increases or decreases in the shape should not be forgotten, as these take precedence over the lace design. As the piece is decreased, lace ridges will need to be eliminated—just knit those stitches to do this. And as other parts of the piece are increased, lace ridges will need to be added. Keep counting the extra stitches and only add new lace ridges on odd-numbered rows.
This will be tricky at first but can be loads of fun once you get the hang of it.
Your lace panels will travel in a perpendicular direction to your knitting, and since you are knitting in multiple directions, the lace will form on the diagonal and look much more complicated than it actually is. But you will not need to follow any charts to achieve that effect.
Iris Schreier, author of Modular Knits: New Techniques for Today’s Knitters (Lark Books), and co-author of Exquisite Little Knits (Lark Books), conducts classes, workshops and online tutorials on modular knitting techniques. A founder of Artyarns, she has developed a line of hand-painted fibers that work well with her modular designs.
Geometry Lessons
By Iris Schreier
Using pieces made especially for Vogue Knitting, Iris Schreier demonstrates simple ways to turn triangles, squares and diamonds into high fashion.
Have you ever walked into a yarn shop and seen a luscious hand-painted skein of yarn that you just had to have, then discovered to your great disappointment that it looked better in the original skein than in the knitted fabric? I’ve found that with multidirectional knitting, variegated yarns knit beautifully no matter the design, and that it’s actually possible to knit in continuous modules without having to cut yarn or pick up stitches. As an added benefit, you’ll generally avoid the sagging or elongation that results from simple garter stitch; multidirectional knitting will pull your work in various directions, keeping it from stretching out needlessly. Garter stitch works best for this type of knitting because the height of two rows is equivalent to the width of one stitch, so the proportions are perfect for geometric shapes. But a few other ideas can be incorporated to achieve the pretty lacy effects you see in the examples on these pages.
Left: Iris Schreier’s garter-stitch wrap is knitted every row. Artyarns’ “Regal Silk” is alternated with “Silk Mohair” every other row. Right: The P90 Diagonal Triangle Tank, in “Regal Silk” and “Silk Ribbon” from Artyarns, is similar to the wrap in that it starts with a center-increase triangle. The front and back are each worked continuously in one piece (pattern available through Artyarns stockists).
First, some concepts to help you understand a few of the shapes used in these wraps and other modular garments: To make a center-increase diamond, cast on three stitches. Increase only in the center stitch of each row and knit all remaining stitches as follows: Row 1: K1, k1inc1 (knit in front and back of stitch), pm, k1. Row 2: K to marker, rm (remove marker), k1inc1, pm, k to end. Rep row 2—one stitch increased per row—until diamond is at desired size. The center stitch is the first stitch of the k1inc1 pair made on the previous row. The resulting shape is a diamond, which you can make as large as you wish by adding more rows. Conversely, you would build a center-decrease diamond by casting on twenty stitches, for example, and decreasing only the center stitches on each row, as follows: Row 1: K9, k2tog, pm, k9. Row 2: K to marker, rm, k2tog, pm, k to end. Rep row 2—one stitch decreased per row—until 3 sts remain. Bind off all sts. To knit the center-increase triangle with a flat base as used in the three projects featured on these pages, you will increase in the first stitch of each row and in the center stitch of each row—two stitches increased per row.
Alternately, to knit the center-decrease triangles used in this project, you would decrease by knitting together two stitches in the center and the two last stitches of each row—two stitches decreased per row. (You’re just reversing the instructions.)
You’ll find that there’s a rhythm and flow to the whole process of multidirectional knitting. It’s very important to note that since needles will straighten the knitted fabric, you will not be able to see the shapes form visually until the knitted fabric is hanging about 4"/10cm below the needles. Better yet, remove the knitted piece from the needles completely to see the shapes in their entirety (run a piece of scrap yarn through the stitches on the needles to make sure you do not drop any when you do this). On page 48 and at right, you’ll find a simple, multidirectional all-purpose wrap with a lovely drape (see instructions on page 50 and below). If you choose to substitute yarns from those recommended here, make sure you select soft ones that will drape beautifully.
For more on this technique, visit the Multidirectional Yahoo group at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/multidirectional, where you can view a variety of photos and suggestions for various multidirectional knits. Don’t limit yourself to the pattern on page 50; instead use it as a starting point for further exploration of the possibilities of multidirectional knitting. This style of knitting can be incorporated into virtually any knitting project.
Remember, when you’re bored with knitting straight across, or just displeased with the effect your multicolored yarn is creating, simply turn and go in another direction.
This wrap, in Artyarns’ “Regal Silk,” is achieved with a lace panel, which introduces a new level of challenge by adding perpendicular emphasis.
This piece uses an elongated stitch pattern to create an open, airy feeling and is worked in Artyarns’ “Silk Rhapsody.”
Knitting the wraps
Before starting, measure your back width from underarm to underarm; this will determine the width of your first center-increase triangle (18"/46cm in this example). Circular 24" or 32" needles that are appropriate for the yarn chosen are preferred for the project. You will not be working in the round, but circular needles will make it easier to slip stitches onto a stitch holder and work the two sides separately. U.S. size 7 circular needles are recommended for the “Regal Silk” and “Silk Mohair” versions; U.S. size 8 circular needles are recommended for the version in “Silk Rhapsody.” From 350 to 500+ yards of yarn are required for each of the wraps, depending on desired size.
STEP 1—CENTER-INCREASE TRIANGLE:
Cast on 3 sts.
Row 1: S1, k1inc1, p1. Row 2: K1inc1, k1inc1, pm, k1, p1. Row 3: K1inc1, k to marker, rm, k1inc1, pm, k to last st, p1.
Repeat Row 3 until the width of the piece at the base measures approximately 18"/46cm or desired width based on the measurement from arm to arm across the back. Measure the width across the base of the triangle, which is the portion of knitting that is off the needles. (You’ll need to move all the stitches on the flexible part of the circular needles to do this most accurately.) Now you will want to grow the height of the piece, so measure how high you’d like the distance from your neckline to your lower back to be. (In this wrap we chose 14"/35.5cm.) Continue building height but not width, since the sides will be angled by following this instruction: S1, k to marker, rm, k1inc1, pm, k to last st, p1.
Repeat this instruction and you’ll see that your sides will start angling upwards. Continue until the height (as measured from the center point on the cast-on row to the center of the work on the needles) measures approximately 14"/35.5cm.
At this point, work each side separately. Let’s say, for example, that we have fortyeight stitches on each side, for a total of ninety-six stitches. Place half the stitches on a stitch holder. Here’s how: Slide half the stitches furthest away from the working yarn off one end of the circular needle and onto the stitch holder. The remaining half of the stitches will remain on the circular needle. Slide them back in position to continue knitting with the working yarn.
STEP 2—SIDE 1 PANEL:
S1, k to last 1 st, p1. Repeat this instruction until you have allowed enough space for the wrap around the shoulder as measured from the point where the neckline is worked separately. (It is recommended that you take at minimum half the width of the first centerincrease triangle, which is 9"/23cm in this example. But this can be increased to as much as 14"/35.5cm if you’d like more fabric in the front with a longer tie wrap.)
End at the neck edge.
STEP 3—SIDE 1 CENTER DECREASE
TRIANGLE: Using a Knitted Cast On, cast on forty-eight additional stitches in this example, or the same number of stitches that are on your needle if different. You will now have double the number of stitches.
Row 1: K47, or k to last stitch on the group of stitches that has just been added with the Knitted Cast On method, k2tog, pm, k to last 2 sts, p2tog. Row 2: S1, k to marker, rm, k2tog, pm, k to last 2 sts, p2tog. Repeat Row 2 until four sts remain. Bind off all sts. Cut the yarn.Weave in ends.
STEP 4—SIDE 2 PANEL:
Take the remaining stitches that are on the stitch holder (forty-eight in this example), attach the yarn to the top (neck) edge, and follow the instructions specified for Step 2.
STEP 5—SIDE 2 CENTER DECREASE
TRIANGLE: Follow directions for Step 3.
FINISHING: Sew together the edges of the wrap under the arms to create “sleeves” (see diagram) and get a comfortable and flat fit across the back. The wider you have made the side panels, the more stitches you should sew together to fit well beneath the arms. Wear the wrap with the sewn sides under the arms.
Pattern Options; There’s more than oneway to knit a square.
OPTION 1 (EASIEST)—SWITCHING YARNS
For the wrap on page 48, follow the pattern as instructed, but work with two yarns of different textures, such as the silk and mohair pictured in the example. Start with Yarn A, knitting with it for two rows; carry it up along the side while you work Yarn B, knitting with it for two rows. Continue alternating the yarns. Matching up silk and mohair is particularly recommended, because both are fine enough to carry up along the side as they disappear into the knitted fabric. Don’t try this with heavier yarns.
OPTION 2—ELONGATED STITCH DESIGN
Follow the pattern as instructed, but every six rows introduce an elongated stitch row as follows:Work the edge stitch of this row according to the pattern instructions, then knit remaining stitches by inserting needle into stitch and wrapping yarn twice (instead of once) around the needle. When you pull the yarn through to knit the stitch, there will be two loops coming out of each stitch. Continue in this fashion for all knit stitches, omitting the elongated stitch for all increases or decreases, and do not elongate the last stitch of the row. When you knit the next row, make sure to knit only into one of the double wraps for each stitch, letting the long stitch form by dropping the second wrap. This will create double-length stitches.
OPTION 3—LACE
Follow the pattern as instructed, incorporating lace panels wherever there is enough room between the edge stitches or edge and center stitch to incorporate a six-stitch lace repeat.
3+3-stitch Lace Pattern: Row 1: *Yo, sl2tog, k1, p2sso, yo, k3 [only needed between two lace ridges]; rep from * as often as possible between edge stitches and center-increase or center-decrease stitches where applicable. Make sure to line up ridges.
Row 2: K across all lace panels. Start adding lace repeats when your Center-Increase Triangle is ten stitches wide as
follows (odd row): K1inc1, yo, sl2tog, k1, p2sso, yo, rm, k1inc1, pm, k1, sl2tog, k1, p2sso, yo, p1. The following row (even row) will be K1inc1, k to marker, rm, k1inc1, pm, k to last st, p1. Continue by lining up the lace repeats so that the previous row’s yo is the position of the yo from the next lace repeat. But do not incorporate lace in any edge stitches or increase or decrease stitches. Follow the instructions for the edge stitches, increasing and decreasing as specified.
However, as you add the lace on every odd row, your first yo of the lace pattern should line up with the first eyelet of the previous row’s lace stitch to create a pretty ridge perpendicular to your triangle direction. Add another lace ridge whenever there are three knitted stitches available to separate one lace ridge from the new one. Any increases or decreases in the shape should not be forgotten, as these take precedence over the lace design. As the piece is decreased, lace ridges will need to be eliminated—just knit those stitches to do this. And as other parts of the piece are increased, lace ridges will need to be added. Keep counting the extra stitches and only add new lace ridges on odd-numbered rows.
This will be tricky at first but can be loads of fun once you get the hang of it.
Your lace panels will travel in a perpendicular direction to your knitting, and since you are knitting in multiple directions, the lace will form on the diagonal and look much more complicated than it actually is. But you will not need to follow any charts to achieve that effect.
Iris Schreier, author of Modular Knits: New Techniques for Today’s Knitters (Lark Books), and co-author of Exquisite Little Knits (Lark Books), conducts classes, workshops and online tutorials on modular knitting techniques. A founder of Artyarns, she has developed a line of hand-painted fibers that work well with her modular designs.