The White Way
New twists on traditional lace techniques give summer sweaters a fresh look. |

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YARN OVER STITCHES
Usually in lace knitting, for every yarn over made, a decrease is worked to keep the stitch count the same. But in the Fleurette stitch chart above, Row 7 uses yarn overs with no decreases, thus increasing the stitches by two for every repeat. The double decrease in Row 9 compensates for the extra sts. The blue squares at the ends of the chart represent “no stitch.” Simply skip over them when reading the chart. To work a yarn over at the beginning of a row (middle photograph), as is used at the front edges of this design, wrap the yarn around the needle as shown above, then continue to knit.
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DECREASE DIRECTION
The decrease method used in lace determines the shape of the motif. In the chart at right, the k2tog symbol slants to the right and the ssk symbol, in red, slants to the left. You can see how the direction of the symbols matches the knitted design. Also note that only the right-side rows are shown. (All wrong-side rows are purled.) This helps save space as well as show the pattern more clearly. The photo above right shows the ssk decrease. After slipping the 2 sts knitwise, insert the left-hand needle into the fronts of these sts and knit them together.
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DOUBLE-SIDED LACE
For a lacier look, as in this sleeveless top, the yarn overs and decreases are worked on both right- and wrong-side rows. The edging for the bottom of the garment is worked horizontally to the desired width to create the scalloped effect; then, stitches are picked up along the straight edge to work the body. In this pattern, the stitch count changes every row. Until you get used to working this edge, it will be helpful to count the stitches at the end of every row to make sure you have the correct number; a missing yarn over would be disastrous. The photo at right shows Row 1 of the chart, working a yarn over and then a k2tog.
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TEXTURED LACE
This lace-panel insert, used throughout the dress shown at left, is a combination of yarn overs and purl 2 together stitches along each outside edge and a garter stitch center that increases from 1 stitch to 5, then gradually decreases back down to 1 stitch. This creates a very textured look and a reversible fabric. The photo, above right, shows working 5 stitches into 1 stitch by working k1, p1, k1, p1 and k1 all in the center stitch. Note the blue “no stitch” squares. When you come to one of these squares, just skip it.
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